As La Feria Internacional del Libro de Buenos Aires, one of the biggest book fairs in Latin America, is coming to a close this weekend and to keep the literary mood going, let’s take a look into the life of one of our most famous Argentine writers – Jorge Luis Borges:

Jorge Luis Borges was the most influential Spanish-language writer and thinker of the 20th century. He actively shaped Latin-American literature through his short-stories, poems, and translations. Even though Borges spent many years of his life abroad, he was nevertheless deeply involved in the cultural and political dynamics that were shaping Argentina during his life. Simultaneously, he redefined a generation of thinkers, populated ideas that would challenge political ideologies around the world, and championed a new style of literature.

Borges was born in the Palermo district in 1899 when it was a less developed suburb outside of the affluent city center of Buenos Aires. He was raised in an educated family and his father had amassed a large collection of literature in both Spanish and English. Borges began reading works by H.G. Wells, Shakespeare, Cervantes and other famous writers before he was ten. At the age of 9, he read and then translated Oscar Wilde’s story “The Happy Prince” from Spanish to English; this translation was later published in a local newspaper. Later on in Borges’ life he reflected that “if [he] were asked to name the chief event in [his] life, [he would] say [his] father’s library”. Thus, his precocious childhood laid the foundation that would inspire him to become the prominent literary figure he is regarded as today.

Proceeding his childhood in Buenos Aires, Borges continued to develop his writing abilities abroad. In 1914, his family left Argentina and moved to Switzerland. There he attended school and eventually received a degree from the Collège de Genève and learned French and German. After he got his degree, Borges and his family moved frequently, mostly through Spain. While traveling, Borges was exposed to various avant-garde writing movements where he and his contemporaries would challenge pre-existing styles and attempt to develop new and liberating forms of literature. As a result of his exploration with various unconventional writing movements, Borges became an advocate of free-verse, imaginative style and content, and experimental modernist prose which was known as the Ultralist movement.

Borges finally returned to Buenos Aires in 1921 and he brought with him the Ultralists mentality. Back home he rediscovered the city and began to comprise a series of poems celebrating Buenos Aires in the avant-garde style he engendered in Spain. He continued to write poems and articles for journals during the next nine years. However, Borges was forced to change his style after a series of dramatic events – including the death of his father and a severe head injury he suffered and subsequent blood poisoning – nearly killed him in 1938. This dramatic moment in his life is regarded as the impetus that would unlock his creative potential and lead to the philosophical and fantastical themes quintessential to Borgesian literature.

More on “The Life and Legacy of An Argentine Literary Giant – Jorge Luis Borges – Part Two”

Alex

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Continuation from The Life and Legacy of An Argentine Literary Giant – Jorge Luis Borges – Part 1

Jorge Luis Borges was a pioneer of abstract thought and was labeled by his contemporaries as “irreal”. He was a deeply imaginative thinker and writer and challenged many of the preconceived notions that defined writing and thinking during the middle of the 20th century. His prose was free and abstract, yet intellectual and simple. “You have wakened not out of sleep, but into a prior dream, and that dream lies within another, and so on, to infinity, which is the number of grains of sand. The path that you are to take is endless, and you will die before you have truly awakened.” His views of reality and time were complex and he investigated the topic through thought provoking stories and poems. To Borges, time revolved in a cyclical fashion and everyone was repeating the same actions over and over. Even more abstract, he proposed that everybody was actually just one being living out all the possible existences. Furthermore, he viewed man’s attempts to understand reality and existence as vain and nonsensical because of the chaotic and infinite nature of the universe. His style of writing not only challenged the formulaic approach to writing, and popular theories about the complexion of the universe, but he also confronted political ideologies that were popular in Argentina and other countries.

Borges was a key revolutionary amid the political turmoil in Argentina during the middle of the 20th century. At this time in history, Marxist thought was increasingly popular and the then president of Argentina, Juan Perón, had established a ruling era based off of these capitalistic fueled principles. Perón was an advocate of corporate socialism or nationalism (state controls big business and what is good for corporate groups is good for the individual members of society) and was enforcing his dogma through the State. Borges’ aversion to this style of governing was evident through his writing; he believed that “the individual should be strong and the State should be weak” and that he “couldn’t be enthusiastic about theories where the State is more important than the individual.” Thus, he was adamantly opposed to the Perón regime and Peronism, and lead a counter-movement, called SADE, in an attempt to restore intellectual freedom to the people of Argentina and disrupt the political progression of Peronism.

Although he was a well-known figurehead concerning the political issues of Argentina, he is most famous for his literary accomplishments. Despite his current popularity, Borges was relatively unknown for the majority of his life, especially outside of Argentina. In 1961, Borges (62 years old) received the Prix International award, was named Commendatore by the Italian government, and appointed a position at the University of Texas at Austin and toured the U.S. These distinctions elevated Borges’s reputation as a scholar and he became notable internationally. In 1962, two of his anthologies, Ficciones and Labyrinths, were translated and published in English. Next, Borges toured across Europe further increasing his repute. He would continue to be recognized with awards for the remainder of his life, including a special Edgar Allan Poe Award, the Balzan Prize, the Prix mondial Cino Del Duca, the Cervantes Prize, and the French Legion of Honour. By the end of his life, Borges was famous in many literary circles and had his work translated into multiple languages and dispersed all over the world.

Borges was so influential to post-modern literature that an entire genre has been dedicated to his name. Borgesian literature is anything that embodies the deeply imaginative and erudite concepts associated with reality, time, labyrinths, identity, and infinity that Borges manifested. He was an author of indisputable genius and an activist who fought to uphold his moral principles and restore autonomy to the Argentinean people. Mario Vargas Llosa, a well-known writer and thinker from Chile, acknowledged that the Spanish language was instantly “purified” and “intellectualised” by Borges’ writing. Thus, Borges had a dramatic effect on the politics of Argentina, the literary world, philosophical ideologies, and his mother-tongue; all of which resulted from his fantastical stories that blurred the lines between fact and fiction, reality and make-belief.

Alex

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Spanish (or Castellano) in Buenos Aires is full of slang words and expressions.  When you first get here it can be difficult, and even frustrating, to understand locals due to all the slang that is used.  However, just learning the basic slang words will be very useful and help you in your everyday conversation throughout the city. Below is a list of some of the common words and phrases that I have learned and that have helped me to understand and communicate more effectively here in Buenos Aires.

Informal words commonly used by locals in Buenos Aires:

Che:  You will hear this multiple times everyday.  It is most commonly used as “hey”
Boludo:  Used between friends like “dude/mate”.  Che boludo = “Hey dude”.  Can also be an insult so don’t say it to people you don’t know.
Quilombo:  Used to describe something as a mess.  It literally means whorehouse so it can also be used inappropriately. A good example will be “¡Qué quilombo el tránsito!” = The traffic is such a mess!
Chino:  A chinese person or supermarket (a lot of them are owned by Chinese immigrants here).  Sounds like a bad thing to say but it is used all the time without any negative connotations.
Cana:  The police
Gordo/a:  Used as a term of endearment.  You can call your girlfriend or boyfriend gorda/gordo and instead of getting slapped it is an acceptable greeting.
Chamuyero:  Smooth-talker, pick-up artist.  Derived from the verb chamuyar: “To sweet-talk”
Mala muerte:  “Bad death”, used to describe a place as really bad.
Chupamedias:  Translates literally as “suck my socks”.  It means that someone is sucking up to another.  It is a noun and I still have a hard time using this one easily.
Birra:  Beer
La Posta:  Used to describe something as “The best”. For example: “El vino en Argentina es la posta!”
Mina o pibe:  Mina = Woman,  Pibe = Man/Dude/Boy
Previa:  Drinks and a small gathering before going out.  Pregame.
Boliche:  Argentine term for the late-night dance clubs. ‘Discoteca’ is the but definitely considered too nerdy to use.
Pelotudo:  “Idiot”
Frutilla:  “Strawberry”, everywhere else in the Spanish speaking world they are called fresas
Porteño/a:  Name of the local people from Buenos Aires,  which is el puerto (the port)
Dale:  Means “okay” as a form of agreement.  Same as ‘vale‘ which is commonly used in Spain.
Un montón:  Means “a lot” or a bunch of something (think mountain), used very frequently. For example: “Hay montón de gente en el subte.”
Plata:  Name for money.  “No tengo plata” = “I don’t have money”
Re- : Used before adjectives to emphasize them.  It is like adding “very/really” before something in English.  “Estoy re feliz.” = “I am really/very happy.” Argentines love to prolong the ‘r’ pronunciation to further emphasize the extent of ‘really’, like “rrr” = “reeeeaally”, “rrrrr” = “super”, “rrrrrrrrrrrrr” = “super duper” etc.
Capaz:  Maybe/perhaps.
Copado:  Another way to say “cool”.

Useful colloquial phrases and expressions for your everyday conversation in Buenos Aires:

Estar en el horno: to be in a stressful situation
Medio pelo: Average, mediocre
Me chupa un huevo: I don’t care
Estar en pedo:  To be really drunk
Ni en pedo:  As derived from the above phrase it means “I wouldn’t have done it if I were drunk”, so in short “No way!”. For example, A: ”
(tener) Buena onda:  Good vibe, good energy, cool.  It can be used to describe a person, a place or an event. Like, “Mi nuevo compañero Felipe parece una persona buena onda. Nos vamos a llevar bien.” = “My new colleague Felipe seems to be a cool guy. We are going to get along fine.”
Mira vos:  literally means “Look at you!”.  Used more loosely like “Check it out” or “wow” when you are impressed with something.
O sea:  “I mean”
Puede ser:  “It could be”, “We will see”
Tal cual:  “Exactly (that)”. Used to agree with someone.
Viste:  literally means “you saw?”, but used more loosely like “you see?”/”you know?”

Learning new colloquial words and expressions is definitely part of the fun while living in Buenos Aires. When you are in town, take advantage of the opportunity and don’t be shy to strike up a conversation with locals. Argentines are very friendly people and always eager to teach you one or two things about their speaking style.

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Upon arriving at Perito Moreno:

me: “Holy “S%&!”
my friends: “Holy “S$&!”
Everyone who has ever seen Perito Moreno: “Holy “S$&!”

Simply put, there are few words people are capable of saying once they step off the bus and appreciate the magnitude and sublimity of the Perito Moreno Glacier.

An hour and a half outside of El Calafate, this glacier is one of the most impressive natural setting in the world.  It demands your unconditional attention and will make you forget whatever you were thinking about right before you see it.  Even if you have the most annoyingly catchy song by Taylor Swift, One Direction, or Last Christmas by Wham stuck in your head, this glacier will remedy that affliction.

When you first see it you cannot understand what you are looking at.  It is so astronomically large and expansive that your brain, even with its billions of neurons, gives up on trying to comprehend what your eyes are relaying. The glacier literally eats the mountains behind it. Jagged ice peaks the size of building stick up like spiky hair covering the top of the glacier. From the front wall, which is 240 feet above the surface of the water, the river of ice extends back 19 miles!  Underneath the surface of water the glacier is another 558 feet deep.  Basically, there is an area the size of a large canyon that is miraculously full of frozen water.

This area of Patagonia is home to many glaciers, but none are as impressive and well known as Perito Moreno.  All of the rivers, lakes and ice in this region comprise the world’s third largest supply of fresh water (behind Antarctica and Greenland).  On average the glacier is 97 square miles and contracts and expands yearly.  Furthermore, it is one of the only glaciers in the world that is currently growing and glaciologist cannot figure out how this is happening.

The glacier is not just visually stimulating but it is also extremely audible.  Every few minutes an ice chunk will collapse and its echoes will boom from within the maze of peaks.  If you’re lucky, you may see a portion of the outer wall collapse and cascade into the water.  When I was there we took a boat tour around the wall. During the trip there was an explosive sound as a piece of ice the size of an apartment building gave way and created a massive wave that shook our boat, it was unreal.

If you have the time to visit Patagonia and find yourself in El Calafate, Perito Moreno is a must see.  It is an experience that I will never forget and I definitely plan on returning.

P.S. One last piece of mind-blowing information:  Somehow, in an act that seems to defy every physical law, the glacier grows from the middle!

Alex

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When you hear the name Eva Perón, you may most likely recall Madonna singing the well-known song “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina”; the impact as the former first lady had on Argentina is anything but just a sentimental memory of a nostalgic past. Her legacy and most of all, what she stood for is still very much in the center stage of today’s political agenda.

Evita, as commonly called, was born Marìa Eva Duarte in the village Los Toldos to a humble family. She then moved to Buenos Aires when she was 15 in 1934 to pursue her dream of becoming an actress. In the beginning she struggled to find work since she had no formal education, and Argentina, like the rest of the world, was struggling economically after the Great Depression. She initially found work as a model and actress in plays and small movies, but eventually made her break when she landed a role in a popular radio program called Great Women in History. Eva’s career as an actress took off over the following years and by 1943 she was one of the highest paid radio actresses and also co-owned a radio station.

By the start of 1944, Eva became the mistress of Colonel Juan Perón, also the Secretary of Labor at that time. She took advantage of her fame and radio programming to produce a radio drama based on the works and achievements of Juan Perón.

The rising popularity, especially among the poor, of Juan Perón due to his exposure over the airwave had become a concern for the then government and those in power. Fearing that he might become too powerful, Perón was arrested and sent to prison. However, he had already garnered so much support by then from the working class that hundreds of thousands of people, including Eva, gathered in front of Casa Rosada demanding for his release. Touched by her loyalty, Juan Perón married Eva Durante in December 1945. At that time this was a highly unorthodox event because Eva was from a very humble beginning with no formal education and Peròn was a well respected Colonel in the army.

In 1946, Juan Peròn ran for President, Eva (now Perón) had again utilized her radio show to promote her husband´s campaign, in particular appealing to the poor. During the campaign Eva had toured across Argentina with her husband, and it was during this time period that she received her nickname Evita (meaning little Eva). Juan Perón had won by a landslide in that election.

As the First Lady, Evita became an advocate of the poor, setting up her own charity called The Eva Perón Foundation. It had helped build hospitals, distributed shoes and pots and provided scholarships to those from impoverished homes. It grew from a 10,000 pesos funded initiative to an over 3 billion successful foundation.

One of her greatest contributions was fighting for women’s rights, particularly in seeking the voting right for women. In 1947 Juan Perón signed the bill passing the law that gives women in Argentina the same political rights as men. Right after the signing, he handed it over to his wife, Evita, to symbolically acknowledge that it was also her law.

In 1951 Evita aimed to run for vice-president of Argentina. This move had caused a lot of criticism from the oppositions especially the military leaders, who had never accepted her new found status given her background and had despised her for her rising popularity among the people. In spite of this, her popularity continued to grow intensely and at a rally on Av. 9 de Julio two million people chanted her name supporting her to go for the vice-president candidacy.

In the end Evita opted not to run for vice-presidency as her health started to deteriorate. Evita was diagnosed with cervical cancer during a surgery that she underwent after having fainted in public in 1950. Despite having gone through the best treatments at that time, her health continued to worsen rapidly. On July 26, 1952, Eva Peròn died at the age of only 33. Even though she had never held political office, Evita received a state funeral and thousands of Argentines poured onto the street to express their mourning. The tomb of Evita is now a popular tourist attraction at the Recoleta cemetery, available for visit everyday.

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You may have never heard of the name Carlos Gardel before you come to Argentina, but once you set foot in Buenos Aires especially, you’re bound to see his likeness everywhere from graffiti stencils on walls to decorations in traditional cafeterías, and his name is also a street name, subway station name and is even used in colloquial expression. Soon you’ll realize he is like the Frank Sinatra in the tango world and he is the face to a very prominent art form of Argentina.

Carlos Gardel was born in Toulouse, France on December 11, 1890 and moved to Argentina at an early age. He initially lived in the Abasto neighborhood (near Abasto shopping mall) and started his career singing at parties and local events. Before Gardel’s time, tango music only existed in instrumental form. Gardel was the first artist who sang tango with lyrics. In other words, he was the first ever tango singer who had created a whole new sentimental genre of tango songs. His first recording was made in 1917 of the song Mi Noche Triste (My Sad Night) which was also the very first tango song with lyrics being recorded. 10,000 copies were sold and it became a hit throughout Latin America.

With this instant success, Gardel started touring across Latin America, and later in New York and also in France. The late twenties were considered to be the golden era of tango, and Gardel was at the front of it. Other than composing and singing, he also made a few Paramount films in France and in the United States. His popularity had a lot to do with his infectious baritone voice as well as his suave handsome look that was made visible by the movie screens. He was the figure of cool, and was adored widely at home and abroad.

He was known to have many lovers throughout his life but it was believed that he actually had one serious girlfriend named Isabel del Valle but the relationship was kept in secret so as to maintain his public image as an eligible bachelor which was essential to his popularity. The relationship eventually ended in the early thirties.

Like many other legends whose lives were cut short too early, Gardel was killed in a plane crash on June 24, 1935 near Medellín while touring Colombia with his entourage and collaborators. As his body made its way home, it passed through Colombia, New York and Brazil, where thousands of mourning fans came to pay their respect at every stop. Gardel was laid in peace at La Chacarita Cemetary in Buenos Aires.

Despite only living to 45, Gardel had a large impact on many future singers and actors. He has also been the subject of various books and films, and in 2004 Uruguay even produced a stamp of him. Today, you can find out more about “The King of Tango” at the Museo Casa Carlos Gardel (Jean Jaurés 735) which is housed in his old home in Abasto. Free tango classes are also given on certain days of the week. Simply take the subte line B to the aptly named Carlos Gardel stop and it is just 5 minutes walk from there.

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There is no doubt that Buenos Aires has a vibrant culture and energy. The city has a long history of art and music, so it is no surprise that there are some really cool venues to show off so much of the amazing local talent. Centros culturales (Cultural Centers) are spaces that are dedicated to the creative works of Buenos Aires artists. A center may be found in an old historical building, a house that has been transformed, or a community space. They are open to the public for little or at no cost.

Some better known bigger and government-run centers include the Centro Cultural Recoleta, Usina del Arte in La Boca and the recently opened Centro Cultural Kirchner in Microcentro. However, there are also many underground local neighborhood centers that are more of an indy scene and give independent and up-and-coming artists the opportunity to showcase their work.

If you are walking along the streets in Buenos Aires on a typical weekend night out, and hear loud music coming from what you might think is a loud house party, it just might be an event taking place at a cultural center. A typical neighborhood cultural center is located in an old house that has been bought by artists, renovated and often painted with elaborate and beautiful murals. There are generally a stage, a dance floor and a bar. They also project a really cool vibe, often playing music accompanied with colorful decor and art installations, and far from the tourist trail.

Cultural centers show off a diversity of arts including live music shows, art exhibits, dance classes, stand up comedy, poetry readings, plays, film screenings, circus performances or club meetings. I recently went to Matienzo Cultural Center and saw a live salsa music event. Another time I went to El Quetzal Cultural Center and enjoyed a Green Drink presentation (a Sustainable Environmental Entrepreneurs meetup). There is truly a very diverse range of activities that these centers can house.

More and more cultural centers of all sizes have been opening over the past several years, as the need for a means to show off the abundance of creative expression and different voices of the city kept building. They help introduce people to new ideas, create a connection between artists and their audience, and provide a supportive network for artists. Buenos Aires’ impressive number of cultural centers shows how much the city is willing to invest in its heritage.

The city is packed with many creative and talented porteños – so check out your local cultural center and ask for a calendar of events and support local art and music! Here are a few that I recommend:

El Quetzal Casa Cultural – Guatemala 4516, Palermo
Club Cultural Matienzo – Pringles 1249, Villa Crespo
Yauss Club – Estados Unidos 509, San Telmo
Centro Cultural Recoleta – Junín 1930, Recoleta
Centro Cultural Kirchner – Sarmiento 151, Microcentro

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If you, like us, find yourself surrounded by decadent treats in almost every window you pass, and constantly face the copious amounts of delicious steak on offer in every restaurant you visit – you may have realized that you are tempted by food around every corner of Buenos Aires. To continue this lifestyle of indulging in the wonderful food, you may be looking for ways to keep fit whilst enjoying your time in Buenos Aires. In the home of empanadas (stuffed savory pastry), milanesas (fried breaded steak cutlets) and medialunas (half-moon shaped sweet pastries), it wouldn’t hurt anyone to get a good workout in during their stay. Even though when the heat arrives as summer fast approaches, you’ll find yourself breaking a sweat more than enough times during everyday activities such as riding the colectivo (public bus) or enduring the sauna-esque subte (metro/subway); there might just be times when you feel you need to take it up a notch. The endless helado (ice-cream) and a few too many burger places (like Burger Joint, Heisenburger, Pepino) to name, here are some great ways to keep fit as you explore the city, and aid those guilty pleasures.

Rollerblading
You may have noticed a large number of locals rollerblading around this city in this extremely popular sport here in Buenos Aires. On any given day if you venture to any of the city’s beautiful parques (parks) you will be sure to find lots of people rollerblading past you. This is a really fun way of avoiding a workout in the gym if that doesn’t appeal to you, and can be a great way to explore the city! This activity has become so popular in the city that there are even places available for you to rent rollerblades for the day at a very reasonable price. Not only is this an enjoyable alternative to ordinary exercise, it also means you can enjoy the fresh air and sunshine at the same time. If you want to combine your social life with your exercise, why not sign up to one of the rollerblading groups like this one or classes like this one – it can be a great way to meet new people whilst burning off that last alfajor (a snack consists of 2 cookies with a sweet filling in between)! One of the most popular places to rollerblade is in Bosques de Palermo around Paseo del Rosedal. You will find people offering rental services along the track around the beautiful and well-maintained rose garden. If you are up for a challenge, you can even join and play some roller hockey here.

Run, jog, walk, roll…
The many parks in Buenos Aires means that there are plenty of large outdoor spaces perfect for running, jogging, walking or even rolling after a few too many empanadas. Despite the narrow pavements, blocks filled to the brim with shops, restaurants and cafés, if you head to the Bosques de Palermo you will be spoiled for choices with space where runners have over 25 hectares of perfect running trails! These paths are perfect for a peaceful jog on your own but if you are more into running with others there are many different running groups in the city – another great way to meet new people during your stay. For a really unique running group who define themselves as a ‘drinking club with a running problem’, check out the Buenos Aires Hash House Harriers (visit their site here), you can join them for a run/walk/drink/social – whatever you fancy! Alternatively, take a look at Club de Corredores site (Sólo en español). They have extensive information about all the upcoming races and marathons in Argentina, and also regular running groups in different cities.

Yoga and Pilates
Both of these activities are very good for you and are becoming increasingly popular in Buenos Aires. Classes are much cheaper here than you would normally find them back home, and they can be a great way to de-stress after a busy day at work or exploring the city. Walking around in the city, no matter in which neighborhood, it is hard to miss a large number of pilates and yoga studios dotted all over. They are well-established in Buenos Aires and if you want to give them a go you won’t find a shortage of options! If you are worried about the language barrier which might get in your way (I certainly was), you might want to try Buena Onda Yoga – they teach classes in Belgrano, Palermo, Recoleta and San Telmo, the lessons are given by expat women who teach in both Spanish and English! If you are feeling extra adventurous, you could also give Bikram Yoga a go. Although the thought of doing yoga in a 42°C room may not sound appealing to all, you certainly won’t find this form of exercising dull – that’s for sure! You can check them out here.

Get your paddle on!
My housemate recently ventured for a day trip to the picturesque Tigre (just a quick train ride away to the north of Buenos Aires city) to take part in some kayaking. Kayaking can be a great way of putting your muscles and strength to the test whilst enjoying your surroundings, in another non-conventional way of exercising. It can be carried out with friends, for a relaxing and fun afternoon or a more intense and individual outing depending on your workout style. Either way you are sure to strengthen your muscles, as my housemate said ‘it was fine for the first 20 minutes, but 2 hours in, you definitely feel the hard work’. You can opt to kayak through Puro Remo, a club with rentals and classes in Puerto Madero if Tigre feels a bit far. The guides are trained to help those at all levels, so no previous experience is necessary! To really spice things up you can also choose to do a kayaking tour at night with nothing but the moonlight guiding you – instructors are bilingual also, so language barriers can’t be an excuse this time!

So there you have it, if you cannot resist the endless choice of delicious foods that Buenos Aires has to offer, and want to continue indulging without doubling in size, you can find various forms of exercise that don’t all require a gym.

Get Active!

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For many travelers, it can be hard to tear themselves away from the bustling city center and trendy Palermo cafés to discover what lies outside the city.  However, if you are in the mood to get out of the city for a day to explore a different side of the Argentine culture and lifestyle, there are several day trips you can do easily for a change of scenery. Let us share with you a few of our favorites.

Very Accessible One Day Trip From Buenos Aires:

El Tigre

El Tigre is a small town north of the city located along the river near the Delta del Paraná. Many locals and tourists alike travel to Tigre to unwind and to take in some countryside fresh air.  Tigre is a direct one-hour train ride from Downtown Retiro train station.

El Tigre is famous with the ladies (and other shoppers!) for its weekend market El Puerto De Frutos (more info on their site here). You could easily spend hours browsing the hundreds of stands selling handcrafted items, antiques, jewelry, furniture and everything in between. Outside of the market you can walk along the river which is lined with lush green grass and parks. There are restaurants, many of which specialize in Argentine cuisine. They are reasonably priced and located right on the water. On a nice day bring a picnic, your mate, and enjoy the afternoon on the lawn.

Another great way to spend a tranquil afternoon is to explore the Tigre Delta River by boat. There are water taxis and catamarans; or, if you are feeling being active, kayaks are available for rent throughout the day.  There are many little island communities in the delta to explore that are only accessible by boat. If you choose to visit one of the islands, you need to plan your time better since the water taxis run on a prefixed schedule and it takes time to travel between the mainland and the islands. Many locals opt to get there no later than the mid morning so they can spend a good few hours enjoying an asado (Argentine style bbq) lunch and hanging out on the island before heading back to the mainland before sunset.

For those who prefer staying on land, El Tigre has its government-run tour bus which will take you to all the point of interests including the market and the many museums around the area. And for those who want a little more excitement, there are also an amusement park, Parque de La Costa, and a casino just a short walk away from the train station. For a small town, El Tigre really has something to do for everyone. If you are in Buenos Aires for a longer period of time, El Tigre definitely worth more than one visit.

Una Estancia

One of the most unique experiences you can have in Buenos Aires for either a day trip  or a weekend getaway is a ‘Día del Campo´ on an estancia (a traditional Argentine ranch). On an estancia you can learn about the history of gauchos (Argentine cowboy), eat asado (Argentine BBQ), and at certain locations, you can also ride horses or take horse riding and polo classes.

One of our favorites is an estancia called La Candelaria, located in Lobos about 2 hours away from the city. The best way to get there is by car or you can call and arrange a transfer with La Candelaria.  La Candelaria is a huge place with cottages available for overnight stays. On the grounds there are a polo field, a pool, tennis courts, horses, a church and more. There are free daily bike rentals and plenty of green space and paths to stroll along. What we found most impressive was the small but very authentic castle, Castillo Normando, which is now used as a hotel for the estancia. Go on a Saturday and you will be able to make the gaucho festival, complete with an asado and horse show.
For more estancia trip ideas, also read our other experience at a gaucho town near Buenos Aires.

Bike ride to San Isidro

A beautiful and economic way to spend a weekend day out of Buenos Aires is by taking a bike ride. One of the nicer, more enjoyable routes is along the river through the northern suburbs to the elegant San Isidro. San Isidro is a scenic, tranquilo (mellow), easily accessible suburb north of the Capital. To get there on a bici (short for bicicleta) you can start by taking the bike path along the river called Paseo de la Costa.

Paseo de la Costa is a path that starts and runs through the park, Parque de Los Niños, in Vicente Lopez. It is exclusive for bicycles, rollerbladers, and pedestrians.  The best way to get to the path/park is to go on Avenida del Libertador, passes the General Paz highway (which is the limit of the city), keeps right when Libertador splits. then bikes a little more till you hit the street Francisco Narciso de Laprida. Turn right onto it and it’ll take you directly to the park.

Once you are in this park there are playgrounds, ping pong tables, soccer fields, and kite surfing equipment available to rent. Palm trees line the side of the road; sand, umbrellas and beach chairs provide the coveted beach get-away. Keep cycling and you will see a harbor with hundreds of boats as well as food stands. Feel free to take a break from your bike to stop and watch the many sailboats in the river—be sure to try a choripan (popular sausage sandwich). During the summer months, there are always a lot going on in this huge Parque de Los Niños, you can stop your bike trip right here and enjoy all the activities available at the park.

If you’d like to continue, after Paseo de La Costa ends at the limit of the park, get on Hipólito Yrigoyen to take you back onto Av. del Libertador and turn right (going north). Follow Av. del Libertador for a while till you get to Roma and turn right. Turn on the next left onto Eduardo Ramseyer. This road pretty much runs along the river and you can use the river as the guide; it will eventually ends and becomes Juan Díaz de Solis. Once you get to San Isidro you can wander around the weekend art fería (fair), admire the mansions, and enjoy the peaceful scenery before turning around and heading back to the city lights.

For a more direct route, you can simply take Av. del Libertador all the way there from the city and back, but you would be missing out on all the beautiful views along the way and the nice breeze from Rio de la Plata.

Last but not least, before heading out on the bike, don’t forget to read our safety tips for riding a bike in Buenos Aires.

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For many Argentines, ringing in the New Year is as much a family affair as celebrating Christmas. A big feast of asado (bbq cooking) accompanied by a seemingly never-ending supply of red wine, sparkling wine and more of those sweet munchies which you can’t have enough of since the Christmas eve dinner a week ago. The most anticipating part of the New Year’s Eve celebration is definitely all the fireworks lit up by you, your neighbors and fellow citizens. If you are lucky enough to be “taken in” by local friends or an Argentine family for the festivity then all you need is to bring a bottle of wine/sparkling wine and you’re set for the night!

As a vibrant cosmopolitan city in South America, many visitors find it surprising that Buenos Aires doesn’t have an organized countdown celebration in the city center like those in New York City, London, Sydney, Hong Kong etc. Nevertheless, there are still many options for those who are visiting and want to experience the city on this special night. Here are some suggestions for you:

Puerto Madero

This modern neighorbood is known for being the ideal area to spend the NYE night. Not only its major street (Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo) is lined with many great restaurants, its location being next to the waterfront and away from all the downtown office buildings offers an open space perfect for fireworks watching.

For the Food Lovers

Many restaurants are offering specially designed multi-course dinners with dancing and live music. Nothing better than giving the year a good round up with great food! Check out these options: at the grand hotels, fancy gastronomic experiences, contemporary and classic Argentine cuisine, big group and family-friendly Italian, rustic closed door, expat-friendly bar.

For the Dance Lovers

Boliches (dance clubs) will start the dancing right after midnight strikes. Head on over after the chin chin for some New Year shake shake. Find out where the fiestas (parties) are here.

All of us at Vamos Spanish Academy wish you a Happy New Year! ¡Feliz Año Nuevo y muchas felicidades!

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Whenever hot steamy summer hits, the question we get the most from our Vamos Spanish students is probably “Where are the beaches in Buenos Aires?” And every time we have to unfortunately disappoint and reveal to them that there’re actually NO beaches in Buenos Aires [accompanied by horror facial expression] despite the fact that the city sits right next to a large body of water. That is the Rio de la Plata, the widest river in the world and it runs between Argentina and Uruguay forming part of the border between these two countries. That being said however, the Atlantic Ocean is not really that far off from us, and that means there are indeed tons of beach options which are just a few hours away. They may not be a one-day trip but some of them are definitely doable for a weekend trip.

Popular and Accessible Beaches Near Buenos Aires (Graphic)

If you are not fussy about the “physicality” of the beach but care more for its ambient and the energy, then you are just a bus ride away from a ‘beach’. Inspired by the artificial beach along River Seine in Paris during their summer months, we in Buenos Aires have started doing something similar and have created the annual Buenos Aires Playa. Rather than one big long strip, Buenos Aires Playa has 2 locations: Parque de los Niños on the north side of the city and Parque Indoamericano in the south. Both locations have big open spaces looking out to the beautiful scenery of the river. The city government didn’t just stop at beatifying the spaces with a very beach-like environment equipped with real sand, beach umbrella and chairs, they also added a lot of other summer-friendly features and activities where sun bathing and building sand castles would seem very uninspiring in comparison to the many other things you can do there.

You will find beach volleyball court, football court, inflatables, water fountain playground, tubing slide, wave machine, aerobic classes, dance classes, live music…the list goes on and on, and it gets bigger every year. When you think it cannot get any better, then think again because all of these are FREE!! Just make sure you get there during their operational hours which are Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 8pm.

Check out their Facebook page for updates and special event announcement.
Buenos Aires Playa is already open for your enjoyment and will go till Sunday February 28, 2016.

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The annual Verano en La Ciudad is here again! It is a summer program of cultural events organized by the city government. Not only they all take place in the outdoors (who doesn’t love to lounge around under the starlit sky in such wonderful Buenos Aires summer weather?!), they are also FREE to attend. This year from January 15 until February 28, you will get to enjoy musical shows, drive-in movies, activities for children, and numerous musical events at different locations.

In the month of January, a Drive-in Movie Theater, probably the most popular event during the summer, will be set up at Rosedale (Rose Garden), on Av. Libertador and Av. Sarmiento. An international or Argentine movie will be shown every Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 9PM. There will be chairs for those who don’t go with a car. The garden is huge but capacity is still limited. Spaces are up for grabs on a first-come first-serve basis.

In February, outdoor movie screenings will then take place at Plaza Vaticano, on Cerrito and Viamonte, right next to Teatro Colon. A series of Argentine movies will be shown at 8PM on the first two Mondays to Wednesdays. During the last half of the month, various live music shows will take over the stage, including the closing of the festival with a jazz performance on February 28 at 7PM.

To see the full schedule of the Verano en La Ciudad program, please visit their site here.

On a side note, Teatro Colon is having its very own 2-week Summer Festival as well. They are bringing several theatrical and musical productions to the outdoor stage at Plaza Vaticano. These will take place from February 14 – 28, 2016 and all are free admission! Go here for more information of their Summer Festival program.

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When we talk about the cycling culture in an urban city, Amsterdam in the Netherlands probably first comes to mind or Copenhagen in Denmark or Berlin in Germany. Basically, you’d think of a city somewhere in Europe. However, do you know that Buenos Aires, Argentina actually has been quietly modernizing its city landscape and introducing bicycles as a viable and accessible means for everyday transportation? The city’s effort is finally paying off, not only slowly transforming the city into a more livable place but also making a mark in the world’s stage for its urban planning. The City of Buenos Aires has been recognized and newly added to the 2015 Copenhagenize’s Bike-Friendly Index and not just that, it has cracked the Top 20 and landed on the 14th spot placed among all the European ‘elites’ for bicycle urbanism. That’s some achievement we’d say!

This of course didn’t happen overnight. The “ecobici” project, as part of a city-wide Movilidad Sustentable campaign (sustainable mobility) began in July 2009. Since then over 150 miles of bicycle infrastructure has been implemented, and a bike-share program which has been systematically put in place and grown from attendant rental stations only available on weekdays to now having 24/7 automated self-park stations all over the city. The best part? This bike-share program is absolutely free, for both citizens and visitors! You just need to register online (instructions for tourists go HERE), download their app on your smartphone and you can start renting bikes using the app. Each bike rental has a time limit of 1 hour on weekdays and 2 hours on weekends and public holidays. For station locations, bike availability, bike lane map etc., you can find all these info on their Ecobici website.

Even though the ecobici has already been with us for a few years and that people in Buenos Aires are getting used to sharing the roads with cyclists and the bicycle system, the culture is still a relatively new one. It is a work in progress no doubt, with rooms for improvements. That also goes without saying that Buenos Aires is still a big busy city with dense car traffic, so before you hop on a bike, make sure you also check out our tips on biking in Buenos Aires. As with where to go, here are our recommendations on some best areas to visit on your two wheels.

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When reading about Buenos Aires, you’re certain to have come across names such as “Barrio Norte” or “Once” – but then when you go to locate them on a map, you can’t find any reference to them. Buenos Aires officially has 48 neighborhoods (barrios in Spanish), but there are another 48 (give or take) that you’ll never find mentioned on a map. While I won’t mention every single one (so don’t try to count, you’ll be disappointed), here’s a breakdown of what’s going on with the names of the many official and unofficial barrios (or sub-neighborhoods) of Buenos Aires.

Don’t forget to also check out 100 Barrios Part 2, where we’ll dissect the most popular and the biggest neighborhood of Buenos Aires – Palermo.

The earliest neighborhoods took their names from the parishes in that area, for example Monserrat, San Nicolás (the official name of the area called “Microcentro” or Downtown), and San Telmo. These neighborhoods had their physical limits and names defined in 1972 and appear on all of the maps; Puerto Madero and Parque Chas were later added to this list as well.

As I mentioned, San Nicolás is more or less the area called “Microcentro”, sandwiched in above the Casa Rosada and the Plaza de Mayo and below Retiro. It also covers an area popularly called “Tribunales” (on the western side of Av. 9 de Julio)- this is where the Palacio de Justicia (Supreme Court) as well as many lawyers are located. With “Microcentro” on one side and “Tribunales” on the other, you rarely need to refer to it by its official name.

After the same fashion as San Nicolás, Balvanera is also an official neighborhood, and you can find it on all of the maps, but you will almost never hear someone say “Oh, it’s in Balvanera.” It’s limited by Av. Córdoba and Av. Independencia, Av. Callao/Av. Entre Ríos (the street name changes) and Gallo. At its northern limit (Av. Córdoba) is an area called “Facultad”, so named due to the Schools (facultades) of Medicine, Economics and Dentistry of the University of Buenos Aires (UBA) that are clustered in that area. Generally people call it “Facultad de Medicina”, since the subway station on the D-line bears that same name. Then at its western edge is an area called “Abasto”, so named for the huge shopping center on Av. Corrientes, which in turn gets its name from the Mercado de Abasto formed there in 1929. To the east is the National Congress building, located at Av. Rivadavia and Av. Entre Rios (the name of Av. Callao below Rivadavia), lending its name to this area as “Congreso”.

You’ll notice that prominent landmarks are a very common source of names among unofficial neighborhoods (“Congreso”, “Tribunales“, “Facultad de Medicina“, etc.). Up in Nuñez, there’s a micro-neighborhood called “River”, located right next to the River Plate Stadium. And there’s also an area called “La Imprenta” in Palermo where the printing house (imprenta) of the Jockey Club used to be located (at Migueletes 800).

Parks or plazas have lent their names to areas such as “Parque Centenario” and “Primera Junta” within the Caballito neighborhood. Some other sub-neighborhoods get their names according to the apartment buildings, housing complexes and municipalities that are constructed there.

The train stations also contribute to the neighborhood names: the “Once” sub-neighborhood in Caballito earned its name from the large train station called 11 de septiembre located there. Up in the neighborhood of Belgrano, there are two sub-barrios that get their names from the train stations. “Belgrano C” (where Barrio Chino is also located, more on this below) received its name because the station was once part of the company, Ferrocarril Central Argentino – with the “C” coming from the word “Central”. “Belgrano R” was once the Ferrocarril a Rosario (a city north of Buenos Aires), where the “R” comes from “Rosario”.

Another trend in naming comes from the groups that populate the area, such as “Barrio Chino” in Belgrano (just like “China Town” in other major cities) as well as a “Barrio Coreano” in the southern part of the Flores neighborhood.

Perhaps the most amusing is the names that have been changed by real estate agents hoping to make a profit. While I’ve never witnessed this myself, apparently some bars in the Retiro neighborhood, not known for being a particularly nice area, christened the area “el Nuevo Bajo“. Even better is the intention of renaming Villa Crespo as “Palermo Queens” – in hopes that the Palermo name would make the property sound more desirable. By the way, Palermo is also the area where our Spanish School in Buenos Aires is located.

Relative geographic location is another source, such as “Centro“, “Bajo (Lower) Belgrano“, and “Bajo (Lower) Flores“. “Barrio Norte” in particular is a famous one. It occupies most of Recoleta and Retiro, and earned its name towards the end of the 19th century when yellow fever was spreading throughout the southern neighborhoods of the city, “Barrio Sur” (approximately around Monserrat and San Telmo). The rich families who could afford to leave the area moved north to “Barrio Norte” (the northern neighborhood). It’s not uncommon to see restaurants and stores list their location as “Barrio Norte”, even though they’re technically in Recoleta.

That wraps up the many and varied neighborhood names in Buenos Aires – so the next time you hear someone telling you about a place that you can’t find on a map, you’ll know why!

Note: Pictures credit goes to renowned Argentine artist Miguel A. Repiso. These drawings are from his book ‘Y Rep Hizo Los Barrios Buenos Aires Dibujada’. Look for it in a bookstore when you are in the city, it’d make an awesome souvenir! To see more of Rep’s signature work, visit his website at www.miguelrep.com.ar.

Anastasia
Read more about Buenos Aires

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Around this time of the year is the Carnival season all around the world, including the Rio de Janiero’s Carnival, which has to be the most famous one in South America. When it comes to Argentina, festive colorful carnivals aren’t probably the association one would make right away; however, do you know that we do have Carnival celebrations here in Argentina too?

There is a reason why Carnivals seem to be a new cultural custom in Argentina but it has actually been around in this land since hundreds of years ago. The very origin of Carnival in Argentina can be traced back to the 1600’s during the Spanish colonial time. The Carnival started as a celebration of a mixture of Spanish heritage and the Candombe dance performed by the black slaves. At first, they were only practiced privately in individual houses but slowly over the centuries, they were expanded to neighborhood clubs and then developed into the more organized public street celebrations completed with masks, colorful costumes, elaborated floats and parades. The popularity of Carnival celebrations reached its new heights in early 1900’s.

In 1956, the Carnival days were recognized as public holidays, but 20 years after, the military dictatorship removed them as holidays. It was because of this change, many of the Carnival traditions in Argentina had been interrupted and lost. Even though they weren’t as wildly celebrated and observed as before, a few cities have kept the traditions going. In the case of the City of Buenos Aires, they have replaced it with a different form called ‘murgas‘, an attempt to keep the Carnival spirit alive.

Murga in the City of Buenos Aires

In 2011, the Argentine government has reinstated the Carnival holidays making it a 4-day long weekend nationwide. The Carnivals and their festivities have finally been revived. Moreover, for many Argentines, especially the younger generations, who might have heard about all these Carnival traditions and stories from their parents like fairy tales, they could be in fact experiencing this long-lost tradition for the very first time.

The biggest and the most important Carnival celebration in Argentina takes place in Gualeguaychú. There are parades and performances from January 9-16-23-30 and February 6-7-8-13-20. This year 2016 ”comparsas” are going to be Papelitos, Marí-Marí y O´Bahia.

The other popular carnival destinations are:
– Los Carnavales de Corrientes will begin on January 22 ending on February 9 . In 2016 Corrientes was declared the Argentina national capital of the Carnaval.

Corrientes Carnival Argentina

– El Carnaval de la Quebrada de Humahuaca takes place in Tilcara, a city in Jujuy. The festivities start on February 6 and last till February 14, 2016, with traditional carnival celebrations combine with local rituals paying tributes to “Pachamama” (an Inca goddess similar to Mother Earth). The most important ritual is where they will unearth the “devil”, begin the party with dancing, music playing and fireworks marching through their small towns and end with the burial of the “devil” again a week later. You can read more about this ritual here (in Spanish).

Jujuy Desentierro del Diablo Carnival

– Los Carnvavales de Salta begins on January 14 till February 9. They have parades and celebrations almost every night at different locations in the city of Salta.

Carnival in Salta

– Last but not least, in the City of Buenos Aires on February 6, 7, 8, 9, 13, 14, 20, 21, 27 and 28, there will be organized parades by murgas on Saturdays and Sundays taking place at the main streets of different neighborhoods in the city. Check out the city website for more information and locations.

Buenos Aires City Carnival

If you are interested in travelling to any one of the locations mentioned above to participate in the Carnival festivities, we highly recommend you to book your travels and lodgings ahead of time. They are very popular attractions among Argentine residents too!

Learn more about our Spanish School in Buenos Aires

Discover Argentina. Check our Blogs

The Vamos Spanish Academy Team +

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Anyone planning to come to Buenos Aires is very likely to come across the many sub-barrios (neighborhoods) of Palermo. But this can turn out to be very confusing, especially when you hear two names for the same area or discover that there seems to be some overlap in the territory! So here’s a list of the sub-neighborhoods within Palermo, including the ones that you’re most likely to run into and some super-obscure ones you may never have come across. Also, since there are many versions out there regarding which are the exact defining streets for each ‘zone’, I have considered all the variations, picked the ones most agreed upon and included their approximate locations along with their names for your reference.

Also you might want to check out “100 Barrios Part 1“, if you haven’t yet, to read up on interesting facts of the other Buenos Aires neighborhoods.

1) Palermo Hollywood (between Av. Dorrego and Av. Juan B. Justo, Av. Córdoba and Av. Santa Fe) – This name came from the television studios (such as Channel 9) as well as production companies located in that area. Some might say the name “Palermo Hollywood” was meant to make the area sound more glamorous than it really is. Whatever your opinion, it has a ton of restaurants, bars, and clubs, making it a fun place to live and for nightlife. This area in particular is characterized by cobblestone streets.

2) Palermo SoHo (between Av. Juan B. Justo and Av. Scalabrini Ortiz, Av. Córdoba and Av. Santa Fe) – The name comes from the SoHo of New York City and London. At the heart of Palermo SoHo is a place listed on maps as Plaza Cortázar (but it’s always called Plaza Serrano). This is the area famous for all the local designer boutiques, fancy restaurants and bars, where surely the place to see and be seen day and night.

3) Palermo Viejo (between Av. Scalabrini Ortiz and Av. Dorrego, Av. Córdoba and Av. Santa Fe) – Please take a moment to observe a map and compare the location of Palermo Viejo to Palermo’s Hollywood and SoHo. I’ll wait. All done? Palermo Viejo is the old name for that whole area now called SoHo and Hollywood, before it was divided down Av. Juan B. Justo. If you look around, you’ll find hostels and stores that still bear this name, refusing to be swept away in the New-York-ification of their city.

4) Palermo Nuevo (between Av. Coronel Díaz and Av. Sarmiento, Av. Las Heras and Av. del Libertador) – I’ve noticed there’s also some disagreement about the perimeter of this neighborhood, and you can find many maps that show it’s location as being between Av. Bullrich and Av. Sarmiento, Av. Santa Fe and Av. del Libertador. Wherever it might be located, “New Palermo” is a trendy and fairly recently formed area (at least since 2007), full of cafés and boutiques, but still very residential.

5) Alto Palermo (or Palermo Alto) – (the 2 block area surrounding the Alto Palermo Shopping) – This area takes its name after the nearby mall, and pretty much anyone living within 2 or 3 blocks can probably safely say they live in Alto Palermo. This is also where our Spanish School in Buenos Aires Vamos Spanish Academy, is located, a very vibrant and accessible area.

6) Las Cañitas (Av. Luis María Campos and Av. del Libertador, Av. Olleros and Av. Dorrego) – This area is well-known and popular for being full of great parrillas, restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. This is one of the original Palermo’s, although many people think it’s part of Belgrano (it’s not). Unlike some of the more obscure parts of Palermo, everyone will know what (and where) you’re talking about. The name “Cañitas” comes from the early 20th century, from the reeds (cañas) in the nearby arroyo Maldonado.

7) Palermo Botánico (between Av. Scalabrini Ortiz and Plaza Italia, Av. Las Heras and Charcas) – This is the area around the Jardín Botánico. Not much else to say.

8) Plaza Italia (the area around Plaza Italia) – As with “Palermo Botánico”, the name comes from proximity to a major landmark. “Plaza Italia” is also a subway stop on Line D. Pretty straightforward. You’re likely to notice some overlap with Botánico and Pacífico (see #11). 

9) Palermo Chico (between Av. del Libertador and the railroad tracks, Cavia and Tagle) – This is a very expensive part of Palermo where no normal person can afford to live (only TV stars and other assorted millionaires). You may sometimes hear it called “Barrio Parque” and this is another one of the original sub-neighborhoods of Palermo.

10) Palermo Pacífico (between Av. Santa Fe and Guatemala, Uriarte and Juan B. Justo) – Some say this area extends up to Av. Dorrego, others say it ends at the Puente Pacífico (thus the name) – you have probably never heard of this neighborhood and may never hear it called by this name. You’ll notice some overlap with Palermo Hollywood and SoHo on either side of Juan B. Justo.

11) Palermo Boulevard (Av. Juan B. Justo between Guatemala and Gorriti) – So named because of the towers built in this area – it’s also called “Palermo Centro” sometimes. Just like Pacífico, this is another neighborhood that I’ve never heard of.

12) Villa Freud/Palermo Sensible (between Av. Coronel Diaz and Av. Scalabrini Ortiz, Av. Santa Fe and Soler) – So named due to the high concentration of psychoanalysts in the area. Based on some brief market research, I think this name is only known to people who live in or near Palermo (which is my way of saying, your taxi driver may have no idea where you want to go if you say you want to go to “Villa Freud” – you’re better off saying Alto Palermo.

13) Zona Roja (around the Bosques de Palermo and along Godoy Cruz between Av. Córdoba and Av. Santa Fé) Sort of like the red-light district in other cities, this area is known as the place where transvestites work. During the day the area is full of people jogging and skateboarding, but at night it’s another story. You may not hear this as much during normal conversation, and most people are likely to say that they live in “Palermo SoHo” (or “Viejo” or “Pacífico”) before they say they live in the “Zona Roja”.

14) La Imprenta – It’s theoretically within Las Cañitas at Migueletes 800, and earned its name from the printing house (imprenta) of the Jockey Club. I’m fairly certain no one has said this or heard of it recently.

And finally, I would be remiss in my duties if I did not mention the Fake Palermos, which are not even in the official Palermo Neighborhood limits:

1) Palermo Queens – is actually in Villa Crespo. The name was made up by realtors hoping to make the property sound more desirable to foreigners.

2) “Palermo Dead” (sometimes also called “Chacalermo”), an area around the Chacarita cemetery. Which is in Chacarita and not, as you may have noticed, in Palermo.

3) “La Paternal” (near Chacarita) is sometimes nicknamed “Palermo Fatherhood” – but I have yet to find a reasonable explanation for tagging Palermo onto this one.

While I’m sure with some digging you might be able to come up with a few more (or to be honest, you can probably invent one and no one would know the difference) – this list should help you to maneuver your way around the many, many neighborhoods of Palermo!

Note: The title picture credit goes to renowned Argentine artist Miguel A. Repiso, from his book ‘Y Rep Hizo Los Barrios Buenos Aires Dibujada’. Look for it in a bookstore when you are in the city, it’d make an awesome souvenir! To see more of Rep’s signature work, visit his website at www.miguelrep.com.ar.

Here is a very artistic video of Buenos Aires

Anastacia (Vamos Spanish School Team)

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10 Reasons to Choose Vamos Spanish Academy

1. Academic Excellence. You will have the same teacher for your Spanish Classes. This is a very important factor for a better learning Experience
2. Dedicated Academic director. She will Evaluate your written and oral level in order to place you at the right class according to your level. She will also be responsable to ensure satisfaction follow up with your learning experience.
3. Max 6 Students per classroom and an average of 5. This guarantee an optimum learning process.
4. We are recognized and authorize by the City of Buenos Aires to operate as a Language School in Argentina. Our permit is proudly posted on our main entrance door area.
5. Confortable facilities. Our School is a 19 Century Historical Building with large classrooms, toll ceilings and conformable chairs and tables. We also have a free 50Mb/s WiFi and a fantastic common area equipped with computers, games, books, and always free coffee and tea. Very important in Argentina: Air Conditioning and heater in every classroom.
6. Location. Vamos is in the safe and prestigious area of Alto Palermo. We are walking distance from top-notch Shopping malls, restaurants, bars, museums and hotels.
7. Weekly guaranteed social and cultural activities. Every Week we organize events to: Bomba del tiempo Live Music Show, Malba Museum, Dinners, Language Exchange at places like Spanglish, long weekends getaways to Iguazu falls, Mendoza, Bariloche and much more.
8. Weekly Free Workshops. Learn all about Yerma Mate, How to navigate the city, Lunfardo (Slangs) and much more. We also play Argentine movies once a week.
9. Certificate of Excellence award by TripAdvior
10. We accept Argentine peso at the official rate. We also accept Visa, Mastercard for no extra fees and Euros and Dollars.

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Popular Ghost Stories

Halloween is not widely celebrated in Argentina, so in Buenos Aires you probably won’t see children dressed up in costumes wandering the city streets, trick-or-treating at apartment buildings after buildings. However, we could still get you into the mood by telling you one of the famous ghost stories of Buenos Aires. It happened at the well-known Recoleta cemetery and is known as “La Dama de Blanco” (The Lady in White).

Also Read: Discovering the Recoleta Cemetery

The story goes like this a young man met a beautiful girl dressed in white at the corner of Vicente López and Azcuénaga (where the cemetery is located), and he took her out on a date. During the night, the girl felt cold so the young gentleman gave her his jacket, and she spilled some drink on it. The next day, when the young man went to her home to get his jacket, he met the girl’s mother who told him that the girl he was looking for had actually passed away for a long time and she was buried in the Recoleta cemetery. The young man couldn’t believe it so he went to the cemetery and found that his drink-stained jacket was draped over the crypt with the girl’s name on it. The young man went mad or killed himself.

This alleged lady in white was called Luz María García Velloso. She was only 15 years old when she died from leukemia in 1925. Her resting place can actually be found easily at the cemetery. It is close to the entrance, on the right side of the main path.

Another version of this story has it that young men claimed that they were seduced by a pretty blonde lady dressed in all white at the same street corner mentioned above. After a night of romance, they said goodbye. The men would follow her and found her returning to the cemetery and disappeared while walking among the tombstones. They realized then that they had been with a ghost. For years young porteños would avoid picking up girls at that street corner. Even an Argentine actor and film director Arturo García Buhr swore that he had met her.

This famous Buenos Aires urban legend has also been made into a movie called “Fantasmas de Buenos Aires” (Buenos Aires Ghosts) by Enrique Santos Discépolo in 1942.

Happy Halloween!

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What is Cumbia Music?

Cumbia is a type of music and dance style from Latin America. It began as a courtship type of dance mostly practiced among African countries to then later mixed with Amerindian, European and African instruments and musical characteristics. You have probably heard this music if you visited Argentina, Colombia, Ecuador, Panama, Peru among others in Latin America. Typically you see guys in the streets playing it from their phones. It is often said that the cumbia is the music of the lower class, although it became very popular during the years and now it’s been consumed by many other social groups.

In certain areas of Buenos Aires when you are invited to a house party, Cumbia is the preferred choice. 

To get a grasp of what I am talking about, take a look at this home made video. 

Also Read: The Sound of Music in Buenos Aires

It is relavan to mention that the lyrics are really not that rich and that the traditional topics in most of the songs arerelated to love, sex, sensuality, crime and alcohol.

The commonly used instruments used in cumbia are:

Electrical guitar, bass, electronic percussion, synthesizers and sometimes also wind instruments such as trumpet. The electronic percussion and the synthesizer are really what makes the rhythm of cumbia music special. I don’t think that I would listen to cumbia while been at home, but when going out, I love to go to places or concerts with Cumbia bands and live music.

Centro Cultural KONEX a great place to enjoy live cumbia bands and is located in Almagro area in Buenos Aires. Sometimes they have live Cumbia concerts shows, and these are truly fun with a atmosphere and people dancing and partying.

Another recommended place in Buenos Aires where you can enjoy live Cumbia is Ladran Sancho in Buenos Aires also in the Almagro area.

Learn more about our Spanish School in Buenos Aires and discover everything you need to learn about Latin America and Argentina

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By Mira Lundsgaard

The post Argentine and Latin American Cumbia appeared first on Vamos Spanish School.

Living in Argentina while Studing Spanish in Buenos Aires

In three days, I will have officially been in Buenos Aires for two months!

It’s not like I haven’t felt it coming, since that’s one of the first questions I get when striking up a conversation with locals: “How long have you been here?” It comes right after, “So, where are you from?” and “Do you realize how the rest of the world feels about the U.S.?” Yet it still feels weird to think that one-third of my time here has already passed me by. In the weeks preceding my study abroad take-off, I had tried to imagine what a scene from the two-month mark would feel like.

I’d be sipping mate on some grassy knoll—accompanied by my new porteño social circle—and discussing the nuances of the Argentine politics I had by now mastered. All in fluent Spanish, of course.

BTW if you like mate you might want to read The 101 of Yerba Mate

My friend, who’d studied abroad last semester in India, advised me that study abroad experiences are typically divided into three distinct stages. During her first two months, everything had felt exciting and new, from monkey raids in the Himalayas to life-or-death rickshaw rides. During the second two months, things that may have seemed “different” at first now became uncomfortable. (Although, I can’t quite see how taking showers with buckets of cold water could have lost its appeal.) Alas, during the last two months, everything had become fine and dandy again, as she realized that her time was nearing an end, India was culturally and visually astounding, and traveling is infinitely more interesting than finals.

Also Read: How to Learn a language

Luckily, I haven’t started to feel uncomfortable about anything yet. I don’t really see myself doing so either, since I’ve already grown accustomed to neighborhood catcalls and learned early on that running on the street is a cultural faux pas. But I think my lack of discomfort is also because I may have skipped the first stage as well. I’ve loved Living in Buenos Aires thus far, and would still pick Argentina as my study abroad location if I were to choose again. And yet, I’m still waiting for a lot of the “new” and unfamiliar to kick in. Walking the streets of Puerto Madero feels eerily similar to San Francisco and the Bay Area, while Palermo Hollywood might as well be in Los Angeles. I speak much more English than I do Spanish, and hear much more English in general than I thought I would. I haven’t been adopted into an Argentinean social circle, and I’m perpetually confused by Argentinean politics … I’ll admit I have yet to figure out whether Mauricio Macri is a good president.

I guess what I’ve come to realize is that, depending on where you are and how you choose to adapt, studying abroad can prove to be more like vacationing than actually assimilating into a culture. Or worse, you can fashion it to feel as far from “abroad” as possible. In my own study abroad program, I’ve noticed students who will unwittingly choose to go to the most American bars in Palermo, who will keep their Spanish restricted solely to the classroom and put on a gringo accent outside of it, and whose biggest efforts in cultural immersion have centered around adjusting to the late partying schedule.

Also Read: The best way to learn Spanish

It’s both easy and comfortable to stick to what we know— to settle into our extranjero (foreigner) routines, to give up on trying to make Argentinean friends and leave our cultural immersion to exchanges within boliches (night clubs). We can cook pasta on weekday nights, meet up with friends in Palermo and Recoleta near Vamos Spanish Academy during the weekends, briefly lament about the fact that our Spanish isn’t improving that fast, but just be generally content with the fact that we’re having the time of our lives. The specific locations would be different, but our previous lifestyle (minus studying) would be intact.

Also Read: Immerse in the art and culture of Buenos Aires Argentina 

But there’s a fine line between comfortable and lazy. While discussing the poverty facing most Argentinean, my professor went on a tangent last week about the manicured façade of Buenos Aires, and about how much of it doesn’t represent Argentina at all. “Recoleta es una ficción,” he had said. Though we came here to experience as much of Buenos Aires (and Argentina) as possible, I know too many Vamos Spanish students who have barely ventured outside of the parameters of Recoleta, Palermo and Belgrano.

Popular ares in Buenos Aires Argentina

I’d be lying if I said I hadn’t been guilty of at least some of the above; a few months ago, I never would have suspected that culture shock would be something I’d have to work for. But I’ve been taking baby steps, striking up conversations with baristas at my barrio café about their lives in Salta, making it a point to speak more Spanish with friends and getting excited about getting up early for Spanish classes at Vamos Spanish Academy and all their social and cultural activities, and opting for hidden local favorites instead of tourist traps. It might not be as extreme as experiencing monkey raids in the Himalayas, but I’m trying my hardest to get uncomfortable.

So don’t cry for me, Argentina. While it’s true that there’s some pasta on the stove tonight with my name on it, I’m not ready to give up on you just yet.

If you want to know more about my blog or the Spanish School in Buenos Aires please visit our website vamospanish.com or visit us at Av. Coronel Diaz 1736, Buenos Aires

By Trine Steinicke

The post From USA to Argentina – Learning Spanish in Buenos Aires appeared first on Vamos Spanish School.